Exhaust noise / heater control

My 1980 240 has an extremely loud exhaust note as do other Volvos from this vintage that I have worked on. My girlfriend is driving around a 1985 240 which is amazingly quiet by comparison. I have been unable to find any major differences in the exhaust system (or in the engine design for that matter). Does anyone know how the volume was lowered on the later auto?

I also am refurbishing a '67 122, that sounds somewhat like a sea-plane at highway speeds. Do you know of any techniques for reducing exhaust volume on the 122?

I have also had poor luck with finding a serviceable heater control unit for a 122. The unit on a 140 looks similar. Do you know if they are compatible with some modification?

240 Stalls above 35MPH

I have a 1981 Volvo DL with a 4 cyl engine. I have, and the local dealer in Hampton Virginia has, replaced:

1. All 4 fuel injectors
2. Distributor and all internal parts-----twice
3. Plug Wires & Plugs----twice
4. Fuel Filter
5. Computer
6. Fuel tank was removed and teflon coated
7. Fuel pressure regulator has been tested
8. Fuel pump was tested
9. Timing has been checked monthly with +/- 2 degree deviation

All this work was done between 1995 - 1997. The car stalls, without any change or drop or deviation in the instrumentation, at varying speeds above 35 mph in any gear with or without overdrive on. The engine starts to idle down as if it were shutting off, we get no throttle response and the vechicle slows rapidly. Then suddenly it starts to pick up speed and the engine speed and throttle response returns to normal. I have added 44 K three times to the fuel system: twice this made the problem go away; on the third add, the problem reccured. Additionally, the vehicle sometimes backfires loudly. Please help so I can stop driving by Pleasant Shade Memorial Gardens with a shovel in the trunk. Thanks!

240 Fuel Economy

I have a 1985 240 GL wagon. It has a B230F engine (~300,000 km) with a 4- speed auto and runs on regular fuel. The engine appears to be tuned well and blows no smoke. I get 18 mpg around town and 22 mpg on the highway. Is this normal fuel economy? If not, how can I improve this?

Your comments would be appreciated.

Needs full choke to barely run

Well, I found this wagon and it was the right price, so I could not pass it up: only $550.00. Enough of all that -- reality has set in. The body is great, but it is not running right. I tuned it up, replaced the motor mounts, changed the oil and filter along with the fuel filter, but it still does not idle properly and has no power -- it barely gets going. It barely runs only with the the choke pulled all the way out. I have ordered a carb. rebuild kit; if you have any other thoughts or comments they would be appreciated. One note: when I replaced the the spark plugs the number one cylinder plug was really fouled with oil, but the rest were OK.

If you also know of any good wrecking yards, or part sources, I need them. Well, thank you for your site and I hope that you will be able to help.

Seatbelts...

My basic belief (after being around rock climbers for many years) is that nylon degrades, and there should be a source for newly webbed belts. I haven't found one -- lots of people will sell you used belts. My belts are stiff; one set is frayed. Stiffness, I was always told, is a sign of UV damage...

Replacement belts can be purchased from JC Whitney or any other major aftermarket supplier. If the latches and mounting hardware are original and need to be reincorporated in the new belt assembly, you can approach any company that makes racing harnesses and they will supply the webbing and do the stitching for you. This is not a DIY job. Get a pro to do any stitching and assembly.

My personal experience using nylon webbing for Rock Climbing harnesses and safety harnesses for the movie field and helicopter work is that there is no cheap substitute for the real thing. I have seen belts and harnesses fail due to age and condition and have refused to fly in one helicopter in Mexico as the harness was visibly torn and there was no place to anchor my own harness.

The only accepted cleaning method is plain soap and water. No solvents should be used at all as they can rapidly detriorate the webbing.

Hope this helps,

1800S fuel starvation

Hi there. I've got a frustrating problem for the magazine. I have a 1968 1800S with the B18 engine. Over the past month or so, it has died on me twice. Both times, I have discovered the fuel filter to be completely empty of fuel. I have noticed now that when the car gets hot, the fuel level in the filter goes down--way down. I'm always driving in fear that I'm on the edge of breaking down.
I have since done the following:
--Replaced fuel filter 3 times
--Replaced fuel pump twice
--Visually inspected fuel line (looks ok)
--Replaced the fuel tank
--Opened the door on to the fuel tank to allow plenty of ventilation
But it's still doing it! If you or anyone has any ideas as to what it could be, I would greatly appreciate any ideas. Thank you very much. You could even save my sanity!