Subject Clue No Clue More K-Jet cold driveability problem Winter storage Removing 1800S gas tank Speedometer quit working Replacing coil / ignition switch Fitting M41 in a 544 Rear brakes lock / thunking noise Mushroomed axle removing drum Big radiator for a PV? '73 142 gas gauge lazy B20 alternator conversion? How far to overbore a B20? Adding brake booster to 122S Adding OD to an M40 Lots more information will be found in the Archive!

Please E-mail us your questions for consideration by our editors. Our panelists are (in alphabetical order): David A. Hueppchen Cameron Lovre Jim McDonald Phil Singher Ten or fifteen recent questions (depending on length) will be carried on this page, which is updated continuously. This is to permit in-depth discussion of topics as necessary. As questions "fall off the bottom" of the menu, they will be Archived, sorted by subject. We know mostly about Volvos ranging from the PV444 through the early K-Jetronic 200-series. As always, we welcome comments and elaboration from other knowledgeable Volvo enthusiasts, to be listed under More in the menu table. Back to the Menu K-Jet cold driveability problem When I start up my B27F and try to drive away without warming it up, it is just flat when I push down on the gas pedal. I have checked the cold start [auxilary air valve] to make sure the disk is closed and it works properly. Checked for air leaks, checked timing, O2 is OK. Have air jets set properly. Runs very smoothly after warmed up. Any suggestions? Paul Selby pselby@dtgnet.com Phil says: I suspect there's a problem with the control pressure regulator (aka: "warm up regulator"). This is not the same as the system pressure regulator built into the fuel distributor; it's a separate unit. I don't know where it's located on a B27/28 (I don't have a V-6 in the driveway to look at), but I'm sure you'll find it. It will be right on the motor somewhere, and there's one electrical connector to it. The purpose of this device is to lower pressure in the control section of fuel distributor when the car is cold. The control plunger that regulates fuel flow to the injectors works against this controlled fuel pressure -- the lowered pressure permits the plunger to open further for a given amount of airflow, thereby richening the mixture for cold running. There's an electric heater in the warm up regulator that works just like an electric choke -- when the ignition is turned on, the heater element warms up and gradually lets the fuel pressure increase until a normal mixture is obtained. Because it's mounted on the motor, the regulator stays warm after the ignition is turned off, so you don't get the richening effect again in subsequent starts unless the motor has cooled down. Since the car tunes properly when warm, you have no apparent vacuum leaks and the disk in the aux air valve opens and closes as advertised, I can't think what else it might be. Please let us know what you find! Back to the Menu Winter storage I recently moved to northern Ontario, Canada [from San Diego] and, perhaps foolishly, brought my restored '70 1800E. I have heard so many conflicting approaches to winter storage I'm not sure which way to go. The car will be in a large, old, unheated wooden structure. I did purchase a car jacket (basically a zip-up "sleeping bag" with dessicant for removal of moisture) to store it in. As I won't be able to run the car periodically, have you any suggestions re: fluids, clutch plate, etc. Ric von Neumann rvnls@surenet.net David says: Greetings from Wisconsin! I have no experience with the sleeping bag approach for winter hibernation. It does not sound bad. The "old wooden structure" is, I hope, solid. The car should have comprehensive insurance for the storage period. Rodents and vandals should be feared. Is the baggie rodent-proof? My impression is that "up on stands" is precluded by the baggie. If so, if you have a set of other wheels or even bald tires, put them on to avoid the good tires from taking a "set." Fluids: Drain the washer bottle if it is recently from California. Welcome to the North! The further north you go, the lower the freezing point of the winter washer fluid that is available. Use antifreeze for proper protection to -?? temperatures. Run the heater on full heat to be sure antifreeze is mixed and in there as well. Bleed the brakes to get corrosion-causing moisture out. There are many schools of thought on the gas tank. My current theory is: Fill the tank, add stabil to the gas, drive the car a little to mix it thouroghly and make sure it is all through the fuel system. If it pings in spring, I'd add some 110 - 112 octane leaded race gas to it. One gallon will do wonders to unleaded from the pump. If you are sure the car will not have to be started until spring, leave the summer oil in. If it may have to be started in subzero temperatures, thinner oil is in order. If it will sit until spring, it would be best for the motor to back off the valve adjusters, so no valve is sitting wide open with the spring fully compressed. Remove the spark plugs, pour some oil into each cylinder, turn motor by hand to coat walls liberally, then reinstall the plugs. In spring, adjust the valves, install battery, remove plugs, place rags by holes to catch oil, pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the motor until you have oil pressure, replace the fuse and plugs and start it, warm it up and change the oil. The clutch should not be a problem. All the possibilities to keep it from sticking to the flywheel or pressure plate, I see as worse than leaving it alone -- straining cable, constant pressure on springs, etc. If it sticks, call me in the spring. Remove the battery. Put it somewhere above freezing and trickle charge it monthly. Lubricate everything! Hinges, latches, throttle and pedal linkages, distributor, etc. Apply a good fresh coat of wax, not only on the paint, but the trim as well, inside and out if you have time. Give a good treatment with "Hide Food" on the leather, to preserve it and keep it from drying. We'll make it through winter and so will our cars. Back to the Menu Removing 1800S gas tank I am currently working on the '65 P1800's fuel system. I was looking in my Haynes automotive repair manual and it doesn't have any information on fuel tank removal. I am curious if you could tell me the easiest way that I could remove the tank so I can get it hot tanked. Daniel Lozano fusion-26@email.msn.com David says: Raise the car sufficiently to catch the gas from the drain plug on the bottom of the tank. Squirt your best rust penetrant at the fitting on the fuel line. Remove everything from trunk floor including mat and fiberboard. If the car has much rust, spray the screws in the tank flange with penetrant. Disconnect fuel sender wire. Loosen sheet metal screws holding tank flange to trunk floor; you may need an impact driver. If they are badly rusted and/or have stripped heads, and you have to resort to drilling (or any other spark producing means to remove them), this should be done before opening anything that allows fuel vapors to be present. Loosen clamps on filler and vent hose. Work the hoses loose. Loosen screws on sending unit to tank. Drain gas tank, cautiously, preferably out-of-doors. DO NOT USE TUNGSTEN-BULB TROUBLE LIGHT UNDER CAR (long story you don't want to hear!). Remove the sheet metal screws from the tank flange to the trunk floor. Unscrew flare nut on fuel line from male union that goes into tank. This often does not work. If the flare nut is rusted tight to the steel line and twists the line off, replace or splice a new piece on (if any rust is on the rest of the the fuel line, replace the whole thing). Unscrew the union from the tank. Disconnect the filler and vent hoses from the tank. Lift the tank out from inside the trunk. Remove the sending unit. Rinse the tank to make it less of a bomb! The one we just did was cleaned inside, sealed, and pressure tested for leakage. I'm going to remove the remaining undercoating and paint the exterior with POR-15 before reinstalling. Also, both the fuel pump, carb float bowls and more may need a lot of cleaning. It will run much better with a steady supply of gas! A common cause of rusty gas tanks in these cars is the drain from the filler well on top of the fender. There is a hose that connects to the well and goes down to the trunk floor. If this drain is clogged, the well under the gas door fills with rain water and goes into the filler putting water directly into the tank. Be sure this drain hose is clear of obstruction. RE: The Haynes manual: at least write "caution" on the cover. See Phil's "how to" on front suspension and compare with your Haynes manual! Back to the Menu Speedometer quit working I am trying to determine if the problem with my speedometer and odometer is the cable or the instrument itself. The instrument had been working but then stopped. I removed the cable, but I can not visibly see any problem with it. However, I have never had to replace one so I may not know what to look for. I presumed if I disconnected it from the instrument panel and drove the car I could see the cable turn; it did not turn. Could there be a problem in the manual transmission itself? Jerry Meissner Jerry.Meissner@mail.sscoop.com Phil says: Yes, you should be able to see the cable turn. I would disconnect the cable at the transmission and see if it's broken at that end. It hooks up just the same as on the speedo end, only a lot dirtier... it's at the very rear of the trans above the rear support member, but you'll be able to reach it. Oil will not pour from the tranny when you unscrew the fitting, don't worry. As for something going wrong inside the tranny, the only possible thing would be the output gear that drives the cable -- the one it plugs into. This is some sort of plastic, as I recall. It can also be replaced without pulling the tranny -- you might have to remove the support member, though. Take your old one in to Volvo for replacement -- they come with varying numbers of teeth on them, so you'll want to match the one you have. Problem resolved: Output gear had two teeth left and was replaced. Back to the Menu Replacing coil / ignition switch Since we're putting a new coil in this car we're babysitting (referenced in Checking a Coil), we have to take the key tumbler out of the original ignition switch to go in the new switch that is attached to the replacement coil by the dreaded and feared "armored" cable. This doesn't look so easy. Or, another approach: Most people have a least a few broken ignition keys that were ultimately fatigued by what has to be world's stiffest ignition switch. Long ago, with a different 1800, I finally got tired of breaking keys, so I removed the ignition switch from the dash, cut through the dreaded armored cable and put in an aftermarket auto parts store switch. If someone could take a moment to advise on the relative wisdom of this undertaking... ease, or lack of it, in getting the switch out of the dash, and if a new switch is not installed, then switching the key tumbler so the original key may be used (the replacement used coil / cable / ignition switch assembly I got did not have a key). If the original (stiff) switch is retained, is there any way to lubricate or otherwise decrease the friction? Bob Burleson rdb3@pipeline.com Phil says: I once walked into a locksmith's with my cracking four-month-old key of the moment to have another four or five replacements made. The locksmith took one look and said, "Oh, I see you have an old Volvo!" I'm still using the same switch in that particular car (our Amazon), but I only use it to turn the ignition on and off. The starter is operated by a separate momentary push-button switch, and I've been using one key for five years now. You'd have to hunt around to find a good place to put such a switch in an 1800S, but that's one possible solution. As for replacing the coil / cable / switch assembly, first disconnect the battery, then tag and unbolt the wires from the back of the switch. Locate the small hole in the side of the switch body just behind the dash. Turn the key halfway between the "off" and "run" positions, and press the end of a paper clip into the hole to release the tumbler. You can then undo the switch itself. The coil is held in by two bolts that undo from the inside of the firewall under the dash. You will have a better time with all this if you first remove the driver's seat (four nuts under the seat cushion) and put down some sort of padding to lie on. I don't know of any good way to lubricate the switch (and it's the switch, not the tumbler, that's the problem). I'm guessing that the stiffness comes from wear -- the new switch that's attached to your new coil should take years to develop excessive stiffness. I wouldn't recommend using an aftermarket switch. Back to the Menu Fitting M41 in a 544 I have a '62 544, and I'm planning to put a M41 transmission in it. Will it be necessary to cut a hole in the transmission tunnel to fit the M41? Anders Persson persa@2.sbbs.se Jim says: Yes, you'll need to widen the tunnel behind the transmission. I've cut a hole 9" (230 mm) wide, 12" (300 mm) behind the shifter to fit an M41 in my 445. Back to the Menu Rear brakes lock / thunking noise I've had my '65 122S for about four months now and I am happy to say that I haven't really had any trouble with it. Last week I applied my brakes with normal pressure and, to my suprise, my rear brakes locked. I started off again with no problems. A day later, when I applied my brakes, I heard a noise like something hit my left rear body panel. Two days later, the same noise happened. Do you have any idea what it was and how I can fix this problem? Billy Gingrow wtgingrow@stevenstech.org Phil says: Several thoughts occur. A common cause of rear brake locking is a slight amount of fluid leaking from the wheel cylinders, making the brakes "grabby." After one or two brake applications, the moisture cooks off and all seems well for a bit. The noise may not be in the brakes at all -- a grabbing brake will apply sudden force to the torque rods that locate the rear axle; if a bushing is worn or a nut loose, the front of the torque rod will thunk loudy against the car's body. It is also possible that a brake drum is loose and will potentially fall off. Pull the drum (read other related posts on this board and in the archive first!) and see what's going on. Inspect everything that holds the rear end in the car. In any case, you obviously need to repair this immediately -- do not drive the car with it doing what it's doing! Problem resolved: leaking rear brake cylinder. Back to the Menu Mushroomed axle removing drum I have a '69 1800S. It had been sitting in a barn for 12 years and has now spent 1 year in my garage. I am in the process, albeit slowly, of doing the brakes. My problem is this: I still haven't gotten one of the drums off. I also mushroomed the axle in the process because I neglected to put the castle nut flush with the end of the axle. I have been working with a thread file to try to "unmushroom" the axle with little success. I realize that I can always get the axle off by futher damaging the axle, and then have the axle repaired at a machine shop. Does anyone have any better idea? Bob Marks Medfield, MA rpmarks@gis.net David says: If it is mushroomed enough that you can't get the nut on with a little work with a file and a thread file, then cut the mushroomed part off with cutoff wheel or hacksaw. Dress the thread end with a file. Put the nut on backwards -- if there's no clearance left between nut and hub, saw the castle nut to make it thinner. Use proper puller properly. If the drum does not pop loose, apply heat to hub. If the end of the axle is more than a slight amount mushroomed, it will have to be replaced -- not repaired. Do not go to a machine shop that says they can fix this axle! Tapered axles are scary enough when new! I've done this on a couple of "impossible to remove brake drums;" one looked like they took the nut off and used sledge hammer on the axle. Back to the Menu Big radiator for a PV? I have been told that the 140-series radiators will bolt into a '62 or later 544 front clip. Will a 164 also fit? Is there a difference in cooling capacity and size between the 140 and 164 radiators? I am looking for the maximum cooling capability I can put into a 444 that is getting a 4.0 liter Ford V6 transplant, with A/C. I also want the most cost effective / easiest way to do this. Doug Rowe UNCADUCK@aol.com Jim says: Yes, a '70 or earlier 140 (or 122) radiator will fit the 544 front clip, but a 164 or later 140 one won't. If it were up to me, I'd take a 140 / 122 / 544 radiator to my local shop and have them stuff in the most core that fits between the tanks. It shouldn't be too expensive. Us ducks gotta stick together. Back to the Menu '73 142 gas gauge lazy The gas gauge in my '73 142 will not work in the morning. After an hour, or sometimes less, it'll register, but first thing in the morning it is out cold. The back window leaked for a while, but the inside of the trunk is now bone dry and the problem still exists ... where do I look next? The oil pressure light is also lazy but not in complete sympathy with the gas gauge. Is there a connection? GEEATZ@aol.com Jim says: The first question I have is, "how's the temperature gauge?" The gas and temp. gauges are supplied with power from a voltage stabilizer on the back of the instrument cluster, and if both are acting weirdly, the stabilizer is the usual suspect. It's a small (1-1/2" X 1/2" X 3/8") metal box with three plug-in connections on one side. Of course, you won't notice a temp. gauge problem with the engine cold. Next, I'd look for corroded or loose connections, especially in the area that was wet. It's a good idea on an older car to loosen and retighten all the electrical connections every once in a while, anyway. Also, when the gauge is failing, check the voltage on the sender terminal on the gas tank hatch cover. If there's approximately 10 volts of pulsating DC, the problem is in the sender; if not, it's likely in the instrument cluster -- possibly the circuit board. They've been known to crack and give intermittent trouble. I'm not sure what you mean by "lazy" oil pressure light. The only connection between the light and the gauge is the circuit board; check that the connectors are seated. Back to the Menu B20 alternator conversion I recently bought a '67 Volvo 122S. It came with a reconstructed B20 engine. The engine still has a generator on it. I've heard that it is possible to install an alternator. I was wondering if you knew what all I would need? I know I need a voltage regulator, but is that all? Also, what kind of alternator would you recommend I install? Russell Hammack rhammack@webtv.net Phil says: First off, find out if you really have a B20 rather than the B18 that is original to your year Volvo. Look for the cast label at the extreme top rear of the distributor side of the block to be sure. The reason I ask is because no B20 was originally equipped with a generator (OK, readers, if I'm wrong, let me know) ... Protracted discussion between Phil and David happens here. There is much lifting of hoods, looking in books and noting of engine serial numbers. The only thing concluded is that there is a lot of variation between individual cars and engines, based on factors including the state of Odin's digestion on any given day. ... and the mounting boss in the block is different between generator and alternator-equipped engines. If your block has the alternator mounting "ear," you should be able to use a Bosch or Marchal (Motorola) alternator from a 140-series, and use the voltage regulator and regulator wiring harness from the donor car. Units from yet newer Volvos are physically larger and may be difficult to install comfortably. If your block has the three holes for mounting a generator bracket, I recommend the Swedish Embassy Delco conversion kit (see Archive article), which is a "one-wire" system, requiring no external regulator, and producing a lot more juice than the Bosch / Marchal units. Jim says: A couple of notes: Use a 55 amp alternator from a fuel injected car, not a 35 amp. The regulators for the Bosch and SEV Marchal alternators aren't interchangeable, and the generic over-the-counter replacements only work with the Bosch. Quite a few rebuilders won't touch the SEV alternator because of reliability problems; though I have one on my 544, I got a lifetime warranty and went through several before finding a good one. Back to the Menu How far to overbore a B20? I have a '69 P1800 with the stock B20B with a Weber 32/36 DGV. I am almost ready to paint the car and the engine will come out and be rebuilt. I have an ipd street performance cam for it already. I plan to bore it out. I already have a Clifford header and 2-1/4" exhaust. First question: how far can I bore the block and still have good reliability? A person who works at ipd suggested that I could bore to 2.4L from the stock 2.0L. Is that correct? If not, is 2.2L OK? If I went that far with the bore, and coupled with the exhaust and the head mods I am going to have done (a local guy ports, polishes, and installs larger Chevy valves in the heads along with slightly changing the combustion chambers), how much horsepower might I be able to expect? 150? 160? More? Also, my car has the 4.56 rear end ratio. Will it help lower the RPMs much at 60 (currently about 4000) if I switch to a 4.30? Or should I switch to a 4.10? Thanks for your help! Greg Simon Greg_Simon@stream.com Cameron says: My guess is that the "person at ipd" who mentioned a 2.4 liter B20 was referring to increasing displacement by both boring the cylinders and stroking the crankshaft. I've never seen a B20 that was bored to 2400. I have heard about one that some folks in Redondo Beach, CA, built several years ago. Rumor was that it was very fast and very prone to overheating. I would not bore the cylinders to this degree. By boring the B20 to accept B21 pistons, you can easily and safely reach 2130 cc. Stroking the crank to allow the pistons to travel farther away from the combustion chambers -- thus further increasing displacement -- is the better way to reach approximately 2400 cc. Things to take into consideration would be the camshaft and carburetion -- I don't think that a 32/36 DGV or DGEV would supply adequate fuel for such an engine. ipd's Street Performance cam may or may not be a good match for 2400 ccs. You would be steep on the learning curve with such an engine. TRS offers 2395 stroker kits. They aren't cheap. Topi would be able to offer better information than I on one of these kits. A 2130 can be made to perform well with a 32/36 Weber, Fuel Injection, DCOEs (or variants) and with one of several cams. I have used the Street Performance cam in a 2130 with excellent results: 178 horsepower measured at the flywheel. Porting the head is a good idea. I've heard from two schools of thought on polishing the ducts. Pro: smoother ducts create less turbulence and help facilitate flow. Con: semi-rough ducts create mild turbulence that helps to atomize the fuel mixture and results in a better burn. About oversized valves: if they're too large, the valves themselves can serve to shroud the port and actually decrease flow in and out of the combustion chambers. An alternative would be to use high ratio rocker assemblies: these are available in 1.6, 1.65 and 1.7:1 ratios instead of the standard 1.5:1. These also are not cheap. Potential benefit of high ratio rockers: more valve opening without higher cam lift or steeper cam lobes. Potential downside: greater likelihood of a valve and a piston making contact if the timing gear should fail -- this would be a bad thing. I realize that I'm not really answering your original question. What I can tell you is this: a 2130 cc B20 with a Street Performance cam, a ported and cc'ed head, the exhaust you describe and suitable induction can make an easy-to-drive, strong and reliable engine. One last note: an associate and I are currently collecting parts to assemble a 2395 stroker and we hope to have it together and running within the next year. I'll certainly be keeping notes as we progress. Phil says: If 60 MPH with 4.56 gears gives you 4000 RPM, 4.30 gears will give you 3772 RPM and 4.10 gears 3596 RPM. I can testify that Cameron's 2130 motor coupled to a 4.10 rear end pushes one back into the seat quite convincingly... Greg wants to know more: I have one more thought after reading your comments. You've convinced me to go with 2130 cc for the bore, but I know ipd does not sell pistons for the 2130 cc unless it is a '74 or '75 engine. Do you know of anyone who sells 2130 cc piston and ring sets for a '69 B20 and, if so, what the cost is and who the manufacturer is? I would ideally like to get the original Mahle pistons if possible. Also, would there be any other parts that should be changed with an overbore such as that? Greg Simon Greg_Simon@stream.com Cameron answers: The most likely reason for this, Greg, is that the '74 and '75 B20s use 24mm wristpins: the same size as the early generation B21. Earlier B20s use a 22mm wristpin. What this means is that later B20s will accept B21 pistons and rings with no modification required other than boring the cylinders. Also, the '74 and later B20 engines have some additional castings in the block between each pushrod that offer greater structural rigidity than the earlier blocks. Check the flywheel: if there are 8 bolts securing it to the crankshaft, it is a '74 or '75. If there are 6 bolts, it's an earlier B20. It is possible to use an earlier B20 for a 2130 project; this would require having a machine shop ream the wristpin end of the connecting rods to 24mm and giving up on the idea of using wristpin bushings. Depending on who you ask, this might not be a bad idea -- and it might not be a good idea. To make this even more complicated: the internals of the early blocks are standard while the laters are metric. What this means is that the flywheel and rods are matched to the crank, the wristpins are matched to the rods, the pistons are matched to the wristpins. This requires greater modification overall to reach 2130 cc. Alternative: get a later block from a salvage yard and have the cylinders bored about .125" over and assemble. Much easier. There are a few sources for oversized pistons for the early blocks: I've never seen one, I've never spoken to anyone who uses them and I've never come across any hard data that supports them or leads me to think that they'd be better than -- let alone as good as -- Volvo or Mahle B21 pistons. I'd be interested to know if there are any others out there with more information. More information: I saw you were interested in 2.2 liter pistons for early B20 engines. Dave Rauch at Competition Motors in Burlingame, CA (650-342-3111) managed to obtain a set for me and is currently rebuilding my '73 1800ES FI engine with them. They're forged and look great, but I'm not sure if any more are available from his source. Lee Powell lpowell@machinecode.com Back to the Menu Adding brake booster to 122S I want to put a brake booster into my '66 122S, as it takes a ridiculous amount of pedal pressure to apply the brakes. My question is: which Volvo do I scavenge the booster out of, and exactly what is involved in the upgrade? Any info you have on this would be greatly appreciated. Ian Koch marissa@softcom.net Cameron says: There are several approaches to this. The first is to locate an OEM unit; this would allow you to retain originality to some degree -- the 122 would still be a 122 and fairly close to "pure." The hard part is finding an OEM unit that works; I have contacted a couple organizations advertised in Hemmings, but neither was able to 1) provide, or, 2) repair an OEM vacuum unit. Another option is to retrofit a 140-series vacuum booster and master cylinder. This requires modification to the firewall, the pedal assembly and the hydraulic lines. I've seen this on two Amazons and the drivers of both cars stated that this was the best braking setup they had tried. Originality is largely lost with this approach, though the Volvo is still a Volvo. One problem is that the 140 braking system uses two circuits, each of which activates three wheels (both circuits activate both front wheels) as a safety measure. Your '66 is most likely a single circuit system, so you may have to be creative when routing the lines. Installing a proportioning valve for the rear brakes would be a good idea: this will help to prevent the rears from locking before the fronts. The third possibility is to install a "non-Volvo" booster. On my '68 122S, I have a Laycock unit that's a popular upgrade for early MGs. The original mounting bracket had to be modified and that element of Volvo originality was lost. It was a fairly simple install -- change the mounting bracket, then add one hydraulic line to connect the booster to the junction block on the firewall and connect the servo to the intake manifold. If a Laycock has appeal to you, contact your local British Car specialist or one of the mail order companies. Victoria British Ltd offers the same one that I have: part number is 7-090 and they can be reached at (800) 255-0088. Price is around $400. As a comparison, a 140 master cylinder and servo go for around $60 in the Portland area, and the last OEM unit I saw for sale (swap meet) was allegedly functional, was well used, and was priced at $200. Best of luck on this venture -- please let us know what you decide and what your results are. Back to the Menu Adding OD to an M40 I just recently purchased a '67 122S. I was told that it had an M40 transmission and that it was not possible to add an overdrive to the tranny. Is that true? Can I pull an M41 transmission from an 1800E that has an overdrive and install it in my 122? If so where can I find a good shape M41 transmission? Russell Hammack rhammack@webtv.net Phil says: The main difference between M40 and M41 gearboxes is a completely different output shaft. It is much simpler (and possibly less expensive) to replace the M40 than it is to attempt to turn it into an M41. The M41 was built into the '75 model year and is not difficult to find in salvage yards. 1800, 140 and early 200-series cars are potential donors. The 164 and the occasional 1800E were equipped with the M410, which looks similar but will not bolt to your bellhousing -- if the trans attaches to the bellhousing with four bolts from the rear, has an OD and the donor car has a motor that is not mounted at a slant, you've found an M41. Back to the Menu