Rear-end whine

I have no idea what could cause the problem to occur only in a narrow range of speeds. Experts, help!

Shortening driveline

You can use the short shaft from any '66 or older car. I think you could also retrofit the whole newer-style support onto the older car. The actual support bearings are the same in both mounting versions.

DL grille update?

If it's possible at all, it would be an extensive modification -- you would need much more than just the grille and headlights. Has anyone out there done this?

B20F rich cold starts

OK, that's pretty horrible. Assuming that the auxiliary air valve really does get power and really does actuate (I don't know how you checked it, but it would be the first item I'd suspect), I think you might be looking at a (very rare) ECU failure. Can you swap in the ECU from your Audi to verify this?

240 turbo conversion?

In a word, no. But it is entirely possible to replace the entire motor, FI and exhaust systems with units from a wrecked turbo car. A header and exhaust system can go a long way, and you can also overbore and re-cam your B21. Go immediately to the ipd website and order a catalog!

240 won't start when cold

First, as with any motor, check for vacuum leaks. Look at all the hoses and make sure there are no cracks. There may be an electrical problem: the cold start injector gets power only when the starter is cranking -- with the help of a friend, you can check for 12 Volts at its connector while cranking the car. If this doesn't help, let me know...

244 A/C idle control

Beats me, but I'll try to research it. Who can tell us about this?

Wet A/C

I draw a blank, and I also wonder why the problem only occurs once every few months. Help, please, experts!

Expert sends:

My 1984 240 had the same problem... periodic flooding of the driver's compartment floor caused by the condensate not emptying but backing up. To fix this you will need to remove the rubber drain hose, clean it and reach up in and clean out any bits of leaves. The lower end of the drain hose has two flaps that in theory open for outflow, but seal the unit from inflow. Unfortunately it can be so effective that either it doesn't open at all or opens partially and backs up water and bits of leaves. Lay the hose down and make a small wedge shaped cut (point up) from the base of the flaps up to provide a small opening.

It works and was an unofficial Volvo fix from a mechanic at my dealer.

M46 overdrive problem

Even though I felt this was a mechanical problem, I let the dealer talk me into replacing the OD relay ($120 parts + labor). This did nothing to change the problem. In an after-market service manual, it said that a hydraulic pressure test may be done thus revealing some kind of hydraulic-related problem. Also, there is a pre-filter and a fine filter specifically in the OD unit. Dealers in both PA and MD have no desire to diagnose the problem. Both recommend wholesale replacement of unit (at least $1200).

Any experience/advice on this? Thanks.
James L. Mason
Jacobus, PA

Everything electrical sounds like it's working fine. Your problem is caused by insufficient hydraulic pressure in the OD when the fluid thins as it warms. 1) Check fluid level, 2) drain fluid, clean or replace both filter screens, replace fluid with new ATF. If this does not cure the problem, the trans will have to come out of the car for new seals in the OD pump and valves.

It's scary when dealers can't or won't deal with a basic problem like this -- does anyone know of a reputable repair shop in James' area?

B20F in a 122S

It makes sense to me (obviously, you don't care about keeping the 122 original). You would get 25% more horsepower and a big torque increase. Pitfalls: you will need the gas tank, fuel pump and complete engine wiring harness from the donor car -- I don't know if the gas tank is a bolt-in swap or not, and you'll have to run new fuel lines to it. You will have to invent some sort of throttle cable arrangement. You need the donor alternator and voltage regulator to have enough juice to run the FI (a nice improvement). You will make more power than the D-type OD is designed for, so drive nice. The car will smog-check as a '72 or '73, if you're subject to that.

Simpler alternative producing a bit less HP but still lots of torque: block off the injector ports on the B20 with soft plugs, bolt on your current fuel pump, distributor and intake manifold. If you have the original separate single-downtube exhaust manifold, replace it with the donor car's double unit or a tubular header. Rejet your SU carbs with "SM" needles.

In either case, you will need to open up the old exhaust system for more flow. If the B20 has an oil cooler, I'd retain it -- I think it will adapt readily to your present radiator. Plug off the oil pressure sending tube and oil temp sender in the pan, and use your present "idiot light" sender.

Expert Sends:

I had a couple thoughts on a D-jet 122. One is that the fuel tank need not be replaced; the original 122 tank will work nicely with a little alteration. Everything will fit and you can make it look like a factory installation if you take the time and energy to carefully plan your approach.

I've been driving a 122 with EFI for about 4 years now and have had very little problems with it. It's basically a '72 fuel system on a '71 head and '75 block that's bored to 2130cc's with a belly full of goodies as well as an overdrive. Result: when tuned down for street use is ~160 HP and 29.7 mpg highway at 70 mph. When tuned for speed it puts out very near 170 HP but that isn't really feasible for commuting...

I would encourage you to do this -- much to gain and little to lose. Parts aplenty at salvage yards too.

740 third seat

I'm clueless. Who's done this out there?

240 exhaust boom

If anyone has any experience with this system or suggestions on how to decrease the noise without losing performance I'd appreciate the assistance. I would also appreciate knowing if there are any Volvo clubs or if anyone in the Heidelberg area shares my interest in maintaining my own vehicle.
Stan Kromfols

I had a few ideas about this problem, but Stan contacted IPD and implemented their suggestion. Here's what he has to say:

I removed the front bracket and it completely eliminated the noise. As IPD advertises, there is a slight increase in the exhaust sound, but it's not unpleasant. My concern is that the only hanger is now on the turbo muffler, which gives me a fairly long run from the header pipe back to the muffler (as you probably know, this modification eliminates the middle muffler). They mentioned something about adapting the turbo hanger and getting the original rubber O-rings back in this spot, but I haven't figured out how to do that yet. I think it will require some welding to make the bracket, so I'll need to find a welder.

The bottom line is that the car really runs great with the new system, and now that the noise is eliminated, I'm completely satisfied with the improved performance. I had a friend who also owns a 240 drive my car, and he's ordering the same system for his car this week. The system improved the acceleration significantly and the car cruises very comfortable at 90 MPH. No, I don't own IPD stock, but I really am pleased with the system.

A/C degrades performance

Is this normal for the turbo model?
Does the non-turbo model suffer from this problem?
Is there any cure for this poor performance?

No clue. Help, experts!

1800S clock

I've never worked on this particular clock, but, assuming it's similar to other contemporary car clocks, I'll take a stab. The clock has two parts: a conventional, mainspring-driven mechanism, and an electric gadget that winds the mainspring every eight hours or so. The electricity is supplied through an internal "fusible link," a thin wire that corrodes through pretty easily over the years. You can repair this by soldering in a piece of buss wire and fusing the clock externally when you install it in the car.

I would think many local watch repair shops could clean and/or fix the mechanical part of the clock, particularly since you have a stock of spare parts. Then again, there seem to be very few 1800s with working clocks out there, so maybe I'm way off base. Experts?

240s miss at idle

You've covered any ignition problems, so let's rule that out. You therefore have either a mechanical problem or a fuel/air mixture problem. I don't think cam wear would show up on two cars only at idle and around 2500 rpm, but I would check the valve clearances (possibly set incorrectly on both cars by the same guy) and ensure the timing belt tensioners are not allowing slop.

A mixture problem is more likely. Both your cars have continuous fuel injection, and a failure of the airbox thermostat (see related question) would cause an over-rich mixture under some conditions. Also common are vacuum leaks -- FI can compensate for these beyond the point where they would be apparent on a carburetted motor, but there's a limit. Check all hoses and fittings -- you may be in for a hunt; I once had a heck of a time finding the unglued lid on a fuel vapor cannister (the charcoal filter thing) that was causing me all sorts of problems. Good luck!

262C 4-speed conversion

I think this would be a lot of work, but it should be possible. You will need the transmission, shifter, bellhousing and transmission wiring harness from the donor car, and, of course, a new clutch. The hardest part might be hanging the new pedals and routing the clutch linkage. I doubt very much that the procedure is detailed in any publication, but a Volvo shop manual on the 260 series should show you how the new installation should fit. The 262C is no different mechanically than the other 260's. Be aware that this modification will reduce the resale value of a "collectible" Volvo -- but, if that's what you want to do, go for it!

122S engine swap

If anyone has done a swap, or has seen one, or even has some ideas, please E-mail me with info.

Many Thanks,
Mark Detro

I'm sure it's possible to do what you're proposing, but I have an alternate solution: 1) replace your T-35 with an M41 / J-type OD Volvo transmission. It will use the same mounts and driveshaft as your T-35, and the bell housing will bolt onto your motor, and it is extremely durable. 2) Rebuild your B18 or replace it with a fresh B20. A properly put-together B20 is the most trouble-free motor known to man -- if you replace those rarely in tune SU carbs with a Weber DGV -- and it can be made to produce as much power as most domestic straight sixes.

This is both simpler and less expensive than putting in -- what? A GM "iron duke?" A Ford Pinto motor? I understand your being fed-up with the T-35, but I would stick with Volvo stuff. Don't take any points off the board on purpose!

Expert sends:

I'm no purist, but from a practical standpoint, I'd say Phil is right on this one. Why replace the engine when the transmission is the problem? It would be much easier to replace that crappy BW35 automatic with a nice, manual Volvo M-41 overdrive or M-40 non-overdrive transmission. Of course, you'll also need the drive shaft, bellhousing, clutch, linkage and pedal, but it's still easier than an engine swap, and the development work has already been done.

Pulsating brakes

The purpose of the upgrade was to increase the size and cooling capacity of the brakes to prevent excessively rapid wear. Over-torquing lug nuts will warp rotors over a period of time -- is your mechanic putting your wheels on with an air tool?

Easy rust repair?

Anyone have any experience with these products? Do they work? Are they better than fish-oil primer? What if you need to remove the coating later?
Glenn

I'd like to know that myself -- what do you people think?

Airbox thermostat failure

Not knowing much about the newer cars, I can imagine a test involving measuring resistance between two pins of a connector and noting the change while heating the thermostat with a hair dryer. That's a wild guess and I'll list this as a "no clue." Can anyone tell us how to verify this failure?

Expert sends:

Found on page 250-2 in the Bentley Volvo 240 series service manual:

"1) Remove the air cleaner, then separate the shutter valve assembly from the air cleaner housing.

2) Cool and heat the shutter valve thermostat, and check that the valve moves to the full cold and full hot positions shown in fig. 3 (page 250-3).

Air preheat system shutter valve:

• full cold - above 50 deg F.
• full hot - below 41 deg F.

3) Replace the thermostat if the shutter valve fails to reach full extension at either temperature extreme."

Hope this helps.

R134a conversion on a 164E

Partial answer: everything you need to repair your system is available by mail from RPR in California. You can contact Rusty there by E-mail at rusty166@concentric.net -- he may know about the R134a conversion. I can tell you that it is not simple -- O-rings and seals need to be of a different material, and fittings will need to be changed as a minimum.

The best opinions I've been able to get suggest that you have your system repaired using the original-style parts, and just run R12 in it. This work must be done by a professional shop -- you do not want to vent Freon into the atmosphere (it will just make Texas even hotter...). More advice is most welcome, experts.

Expert sends:

Might I suggest my web page for more information about the conversion from R-12 to R-134a? Look in the Air Conditioning section. Apart from my own opinion on the subject, I've included some Internet references.
http://www.startext.net/homes/ggoodspe/INDEX.HTM